Perfumery...an Olfactory Harmony

Harmony: the quality of forming a pleasing and consistent whole.

I love the aspect of my job that encompasses perfumery – mixing blends of exotic essential oils to develop a new fragrance for our soap. While some would argue I become rather a mad scientist when mixing my olfactory potions, I think more of it as a kind of spiritual artistry, linked by history to temples and Gods.
Consider that the first use of fragrance was aromatic plant matter burned ritually as incense to the Gods and ancestors. Even the origin of the word, 'perfume', comes from the Latin 'per fumum' meaning "through smoke". The fragrant smoke was believed to carry prayers aloft, connecting people with their deities.
Early bathing, too, is linked to religion as a means of purifying oneself, linking both soap and fragrance to the spiritual process.

Mixing the various aromatic oils is much like composing a painting or piece of music. Balance and harmony can be achieved in a good composition. Deep, heavy scents such as Sandalwood or Patchouli form the base note, the dark elements that ground and fix the blend. The middle range is held by solid, but even, entities including Lavender, Jasmine, and Clary Sage. The bright, but fleeting, top notes are played by delicate oils like those from citrus. They are first to catch your nose before they give way to the aromatic melody that follows.
The trick is to find the balance between these aspects that plays the sense of smell as a chord of beautiful music tantalizes the ears. A true master creates olfactory symphonies and, indeed, the workplace display of essential oils is called a “perfume organ”. But, unlike music, the fragrant blend takes time to mature for all its harmony to become evident. When you first mix the essences the result can be harsh – the notes distinct and sometimes discordant. It takes time for them to meld and mellow and reveal their true character.

When making soap this need for patience in perfumery is magnified, as the chemical reaction and essence of the soap itself can mute or change the flavor of the blend. You make a wonderful aroma and yet, when added to soap, it becomes dull and listless. So you consider the notes which have dampened and accentuate or compliment them and try again, waiting the long time for the soap to make and cure. Needless to say, when you finally refine one to the point where you are pleased, it is a grand moment!

We hope you enjoy the fragrant melodies we have created for all our soaps. The ones which have required the most work, and of which we are proudest are: Aloe Vera/Kelp; Apricot Poppy; Forest; Lemon Shea Butter; Sweet Herb; Rose Clay; and now Oatmeal Spice.
See them on our soap page.

To read a brief history of perfume, see my article here.